CARNEVALE!

Carnevale is an Italian holiday generally celebrated in February or March, as it doesn’t have a fixed date. The festivity as we know it today stems from Christianity: it is the period right before Lent, which is characterized by fasting and self-denial, especially when it comes to meat. The name itself comes from the Latin “carnem levare”, which translates to “removing the meat”. The date for the Carnevale changes depending on when Easter is: it begins exactly nine weeks before Easter and ends with Mardi Gras, the day before Ash Wednesday.
For these reasons, Carnevale was seen in the past as the final time to celebrate and enjoy the pleasures of life before Lent. The tradition of celebrating by feasting and sharing in the merriment comes from the Roman Saturnalia, a festival in which social norms were disregarded or even reversed completely, and people often wore costumes. This feature unites cities throughout Italy, and even though the most well-known celebrations are the ones in Venice, all regions throughout the Italian peninsula have their own special traditions. For example, in Viareggio, allegorical chariots parade through the town, while in Sciacca the inhabitants make paper-mâché works. The most unique Carnival tradition, however, can be found in Ivrea (Piedmont), where participants take part in the so-called Battle of the Oranges. As the name suggests the people taking part in the game throw oranges at each other.
Despite its religious roots, Carnevale is popular among many Italians, and especially families, where children are encouraged to dress up, sometimes making their own paper masks at school.

CARNEVALE DI VIAREGGIO

When: February 4/12/16/19/21/25 – Parade starting times vary according to day
Where: Viareggio
Price: Tickets start at euros 22
Website: https://viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/

Regarded as highly as the Venetian carnival, Carnevale di Viareggio gets its name from the town on the Tyrrhenian coast. It is considered amongst the most renowned carnival celebrations in both Italy and Europe, and this year, it celebrates its 150th anniversary! The parade features allegorical floats with political and social themes.

EATING TUSCAN: Carnevale Edition

CENCI
The origin of cenci (“rags”) can be traced to Ancient Rome’s frictilia, sweet fried dough that was served during Saturnalia, a festival that resembles modern Carnival. The recipe is not much different nowadays, but despite being a relatively simple dish, most Florentines love it and purchase it around Carnival time any pasticceria or supermarket. Fun fact! The recipe expanded to other parts of Italy during the centuries, cenci have different names in different regions, such as frappe or chiacchiere (“chit chat”).

Where to eat it:  During the carnival period you can find them in most bakeries, but we suggest Forno Ghibellina (Via Ghibellina, 41r).

SCHIACCIATA ALLA FIORENTINA
Along with “cenci”, schiacciata alla fiorentina is a typical Carnival cake, and a favorite of Florentines. It is a sponge cake that comes in a rectangular shape and has a distinct orange and vanilla scent. Traditionally it is served plain, but you can also find it filled with Chantilly cream. It is customary to stencil the Florentine lily on top of the cake with cocoa powder. Originally, the cake was known as “Schiacciata delle Murate”, because it was made by the cloistered nuns that lived in the convent (called Le Murate) on Via Ghibellina, and after it was converted into a prison the cake was often given to prisoners as part of their last meal before being executed.

Where to eat it:  During the carnival period you can find them in most bakeries, but we suggest Forno Ghibellina (Via Ghibellina, 41r).

FRITTELLE
Another Carnevale delicacy is frittelle, sweet rice balls that are a must during this period. The dish has its roots in the Renaissance (it was seen in writing for the first time in 1465!) and is made with rice cooked in milk mixed with water, sugar, and finely chopped orange peels. After the rice is cooked, rum, lemon, eggs, and a little flour are added. Once the mixture has thickened, it is rolled into little balls and fried. Before serving, the rice balls are rolled in sugar. Like many recipes in Tuscany, every family has its recipe that is passed on, so the preparation can vary. The origin of the world-renowned bistecca alla Fiorentina, can be traced back to the Medici family, who ruled Florence between the 15th and the 18th century. During that time it was tradition for the family to light up bonfires in squares around Florence to celebrate St. Lawrence (August 10th) when people would gather in the streets to admire the shooting stars that crossed the night sky. On the night of St. Lawrence, the people would gather around the bonfires and enjoy the steak, courtesy of the Medici family. The bistecca is cooked on hot coals without any condiments. Once cooked, it should be salted, put on a wooden tray, and then covered, so that the “juices” can be properly re-absorbed. It is eaten rare and asking to have it well done is often frowned upon.

Where to eat it:  During the carnival period you can find them in most bakeries, but we suggest Forno Ghibellina (Via Ghibellina, 41r).