Written by Grace Mirande, Ohio State University | ISI Florence Fall 2024
Exploring Florence
I find myself amazed, over and over again, at the amount of unique spots to discover in Florence. Florence is a relatively compact city – everything is within walking distance – yet it packs so much history, art, and charm into a small area. Museums, cafés, churches, and gelaterias: there is something new and exciting in every corner. Because of this, I have made it a point to explore at least one new building, shop, or street each day. Some of my favorite finds I have stumbled upon include a grassy park just outside the city walls, an old theater transformed into a bookstore/café, uncrowded views of the Duomo, and old-timey photo booths. I am happy to report that even after spending considerable time here, I am nowhere near running out of new places to explore.
The uniqueness of Florence is so captivating that thousands of people flock to the city each day to experience it for themselves. Especially in the summer, the crowds of tourists mean that conscious effort is required to get an authentic Italian experience in the city. However, with minimal planning, you can absolutely achieve this in Florence. For this reason, despite all the hidden gems I have uncovered during my time here, there is one place where I always find myself gravitating.
My Favorite Spot in Florence: Piazza Santo Spirito
Just across the Arno River, quietly tucked away from the city’s main tourist attractions, Piazza Santo Spirito is the heart of the Santo Spirito neighborhood (also known as Oltrarno). The square is surrounded on three sides by restaurants and bars, each with dozens of tables for outdoor dining, while the Basilica of Santo Spirito and its always-lively stone steps complete the perimeter of the piazza. Designed by Brunelleschi in the mid-1400s, the bare and unassuming church façade conceals a beautifully decorated convent and cathedral inside, with artworks from some of Florence’s most famous Renaissance artists. In the center of the square is a fountain, circled by trees, that serves as a popular meeting point for locals.
One of my favorite things about Piazza Santo Spirito is that it has a vibrant and dynamic atmosphere that is different at every hour of the day. There are so many different things you can do here, many of which are wonderful ways to experience authentic Italian culture.
From Morning till Night: A Day in Piazza Santo Spirito
I’ll walk through what you can find on a typical day in Piazza Santo Spirito!
It wakes up slowly, as local food vendors set up their stalls to sell fresh produce at the daily market. A few of the cafés open at 8 am, when the market begins, to serve coffee and pastries. The pace is relaxed in the morning, as people sit outside Pop Café and Pitta M’Ingolli sipping espresso and meandering through market stalls to browse the selection of fresh food, second-hand clothes, and flowers. Getting your groceries at the market, or even just going to the same coffee shop every day is a great way to practice your Italian skills, and even build friendships with the local vendors.
The piazza becomes more animated as the afternoon approaches. The remaining restaurants that were not open for breakfast set out their tables and chairs and welcome guests for lunch, as people continue to enjoy the last few hours of the market before it closes at 2pm. On Sundays, there is a flea market where you can find clothes, leather, antiques, and handmade jewelry, among many other treasures. I would absolutely recommend spending some weekends in Florence to experience it, as it is another great opportunity to socialize and experience Italian culture. As the market wraps up, traditional Tuscan dishes, wine glasses, and lively conversation fill the tables. Osteria Santo Spirito is one of many delicious sit-down options, while many people opt to grab take-away from the nearby Gustapanino and Gustapizza to enjoy sandwiches and pizza while sitting on the church stairs, overlooking the bustle of activity in the piazza.
As the afternoon fades, the piazza quiets down again, but only slightly, and only for a short time. Around 6 pm, the piazza comes alive again, as locals, study abroad students, and tourists alike, gather to enjoy an aperitivo.
Aperitivo is an important cultural ritual and part of the day for Italians; it involves a drink and finger food, olives, and chips that serve as a warm-up to dinner and is a time to unwind from the day and enjoy the company of others. I always enjoy sitting outside at a bar called Volume after class with my friends, sipping on a Hugo or Aperol Spritz, and watching the church façade slowly become bathed in glowing, gold light as the sun sets.
Finally, once the sun has set, dinner is served. Every seat at every table is now filled, and often, the sounds of a street musician join the excited buzz of people who have now been fueled by good food, good drinks, and good company. Locals will often hang out near the fountain and on the benches nearby, so if you are feeling bold, don’t be afraid to approach them and introduce yourself! It’s a great way to practice your Italian, and maybe even make local friends. This hum of energy will continue late into the night, and, occasionally on summer nights, you may even be lucky enough to join people dancing in the piazza.
Piazza Santo Spirito is the heart and soul of the neighborhood – a vibrant cultural and social hub, and one of the best places to experience genuine Florentine culture. By spending consistent time there, I have begun to recognize familiar faces of restaurant and bar staff, as well as locals who frequent the square. I have learned a lot about Italian culture and values just simply by placing myself in this environment, observing and engaging with the local atmosphere. The chance to exchange ideas, conversation, and friendship in the same place that this community has done so for centuries has added incredible richness to my understanding of Italian life and culture.